![]() Dig it deep enough to plant the tree so that its root collar – the distinct line where the stem meets the root ball – is level with the ground. Inspect the roots and cut them back if they are wrapped around the root ball to prevent the tree from becoming rootbound.ĭig a hole the size of the root system, typically 12-18 inches, Stein said. Bare root trees will not have any soil around the roots. “We want the tree to stay dormant as long as possible to avoid tree or fruit damage from any potential late-spring freezes,” he said.īefore planting, knock off the soil around the tree’s roots, which in container trees typically includes peat moss and perlite or a light mix. Plant fruit trees in an area where it will avoid late-day sun which can contribute to earlier bud breaks. Stein recommends placing the tree on the north side of the property, so it stays cold during dormancy and stay dormant longer. The tree’s location related to the property layout is another consideration. Low spots, even if they drain well are not recommended because cold air settles there, Stein said. Stein said soil berms can be built up about 18 to 24 inches on which to plant the trees to keep water at bay.īare root trees establish better, but they can be difficult to find because most tree nurseries stock container trees. “You don’t want a spot where water ponds,” he said. So low spots or areas that stay saturated easily are not good transplant locations. Soil that does not drain well can become a problem for fruit trees, Stein said. “The challenge is that bare-root trees are getting harder to find.” Where and how to plant “They’re less expensive and will grow better,” he said. Stein said he prefers planting bare root fruit trees rather than container trees. ![]() “If you find damage once you get it home or discover it’s irreversibly root bound or has other potential issues, take it back,” he said. Make sure the roots are not dry or wrapped around the tree’s base, which can lead to root girdling. ![]() Cut the tree’s roots to make sure they are a healthy white, and look for nodules, which could be root rot nematodes. Inspect the tree for injury or signs of stress, he said.Ĭheck for gum coming out of the tree, any injuries to the tree’s cambium layer or other issues like crown gall, Stein said. Once you’ve narrowed the options, visit a reputable tree nursery, and choose a medium-sized tree – 3-5 feet tall – so the recommended cutback at planting is less severe, Stein said. “It has comprehensive fact sheets on different crops and gives variety recommendations based on locations.” “I suggest using the Aggie horticulture fruit site, when choosing varieties,” he said. Apples are hard to grow in Texas, and pears are the easiest. Peaches are the most universally planted fruit tree in Texas, Stein said. Picking the right tree and tree variety are important decisions when transplanting fruit trees. “When people plant their fruit trees in the early spring, they may struggle because they haven’t initiated good root growth to help them absorb moisture and nutrients during a stressful summer,” he said. That initial root growth can make a big difference during harsh summer conditions. Planting trees in early winter will help them establish some root growth before they break dormancy in the spring, Stein said. The key is that trees be totally dormant at planting. When it comes to fruit trees, Larry Stein, Ph.D., AgriLife Extension fruit specialist, Uvalde, said to plant in late December through February. Peaches are the most universally planted fruit tree in Texas.
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